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A heritage visit to this pearl at the foot of the Pyrenees
Behind a white gate in the place called Combelongue hides a peaceful, timeless place. A unique brick building in a lush green landscape makes us want to pass through the door of this secret garden. I ring the bell to announce our presence, and the owner of the place, Mr. Mirguet-Avanzi, welcomes us warmly and begins a short historical introduction to the place, the abbey and its gardens.
THE ABBEY
Shall we start with a bit of history? I won't tell you everything... because I'll leave some for your visit, but here's what struck me.
This abbey was founded there almost 900 years, in 1138. Its architecture is influenced Mudejar… If, like me, you don't know what that means, don't answer: Mr. Mirguet explained everything to me! A Mudejar is a Saracen who stayed in Spain after the Reconquista (… and since I'm not good at history, I had to look up what the Reconquista was: it was when the Spanish reconquered the provinces occupied by the Muslims in the Middle Ages). In short, a Mudejar is a Muslim Arab who stayed in Spain in the service of the Christians. If you want to give the impression that you know what you're talking about, pronounce it the Spanish way: "moudéjar," with the jot, and not the French “j”…
The biggest peculiarity of the abbey's Mudejar architecture is thatit is made of brick. Whereas around here, in the 12th century, everything, absolutely EVERYTHING, was built of stone. This abbey has no equivalent here. You'd have to go to Spain to get close to it!
Another striking detail: the abbots of this place had the rank of bishop, and therefore This abbey church has the rank of cathedral, that's why it has a transept (the part of the building that gives it the shape of a cross).
Useful information !
For lovers of Roman art, the couple Saint Lizier and Combelongue is really interesting to do! Indeed, Saint Lizier Cathedral is a church of the people. In the 12th century, the faithful who frequented it were illiterate, they needed representations: that's why there are many figurative paintings. Conversely, at that time, in the abbeys people knew how to read and write, and they knew the texts by heart: no need for representation in painting. So in Combelongue, there is a second level of communication, everything is symbolic, the shapes, the numbers, the sculptures, but no paintings. Saint Lizier and Combelongue are two facets of Romanesque art that we therefore recommend you combine!
This is the only abbey in the Couserans region, and one of the largest abbeys in the south of France. It once had a cloister that was three times larger than the cloister of St Lizier and stretched for almost 3 meters. Unfortunately, this was destroyed during the Wars of Religion, and today only the abbey church and the abbey house remain.
THE GARDENS
After this historical introduction, we are invited to take a self-guided tour of the park using a map. There are even a few QR codes, which give us keys to understanding the place.
A little tip: as you walk around, pay attention to the details! The natural and architectural elements are placed with great precision: it's no coincidence that a tree is located in the axis of an arch, or that branches create a picture frame effect. So many small touches that make the place harmonious and unique.
The gardens are labeled "Remarkable Garden," a prestigious label from the Ministry of Culture. There are only two such gardens in Ariège: the gardens of Combelongue Abbey and the Bamboo Park.
The gardens reflect the history of the place through the ages, with a medieval garden, renaissance garden and contemporary garden in the French style. But the landscapes also reflect thespirit of the abbey : simple and rigorous. There reigns a more than peaceful atmosphere.
As the visit progresses, we disconnect, and we have the impression of passing into another space-time. We can then devote all our attention to what surrounds us, listen to the rustling of the leaves, the trickling of water on the stones, and feel the fresh breeze on our face. Strolling sometimes in the shade, sometimes in the sun, we admire the shapes and perspectives sculpted by the landscape. Then we leave with our batteries recharged: a little break that does us good... A real moment of disconnection that we recommend!
In practice
In July and August, the site is open from 15 p.m. to 18 p.m. The rest of the year, the abbey is open upon request at 06 07 99 35 82. The rate is €5 per adult, and €3 for children over 7 years old. Under 7 years old, it's free!
