Cheese

Couserans is the 2nd largest cheese-producing region in the Pyrenees and benefits in particular from a PGI for raw milk Pyrenees tomme and the "Valeurs Parc" brand of the Ariège Pyrenees.

The Ariège Pyrenees, and in particular the valleys of Couserans, are, after the Atlantic Pyrenees, the most important cheese production area in the mountain range.

Moulis, Bethmale, Calabasse, Rogallais…cheeses which take their name from the valleys where they are made and constitute a single cheese: “Pyrenean tomme made from raw milk”. 

Only since 1996 has its pasteurized version benefited from a PGI (Protected Geographical Indication). The PGI implies the existence of close links between the terroir, or territory and the specific characteristics of the product.

For 20 years, artisans and farm producers have been asking for changes to the specifications to have a Pyrenean cheese that resembles their terroir.  

• Introduction of farm and artisanal productions
• Introduction of milks other than cow's milk 
• Change of production area
• Introduction of raw milk and therefore the recognition of cheeses with natural rinds
• Introduction of obligations regarding farming practices (compulsory grazing, origin of feed given to animals, etc.) 

Driven by farmstead cheesemakers and artisanal producers seeking recognition for their expertise, and supported by the Ariège Pyrenees Regional Natural Park , the long-awaited amendment to the specifications was finally approved by the European Commission. Now, all Tomme cheeses from the Pyrenees can bear the PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) label . This provides a genuine guarantee for consumers and recognizes the work of the entire sector.

The secret of the ancient production of raw milk tomme cheese

In the center of the herd, two cowherds wearing hooves are busy at work. One of them squats on his wooden milking parlor* to collect the precious milk, as creamy as whipped cream . After milking, the milk rests and gradually thickens into a creamy layer. Then, armed with his cherrywood spoon* , the man scoops the generous cream by lightly skimming the surface of the liquid and places it in his milk jug*.

When the milk is heated, he slowly rotates his toudeilho* between his outstretched hands, always in the same direction, to dissolve the rennet until the curd forms a compact mass held in the branches. The mixture is then crumbled, salted, and kneaded, before being poured into molds placed under a press.

These cheeses will be turned every eight days after a minimum aging of 2 months in the high-altitude barns which will eventually be brought down from the summer pastures at the end of the summer to be sold in the village square.

Today, milking techniques at the dairy are more modern, but the curdling, molding, draining, and salting that give the cheese its flavor are still done by hand. Tomme cheese, made from cow's, goat's, or sheep's milk, stems from an age-old tradition of local producers and is enjoyed on its own, but it is also used in a number of recipes in our mountain cuisine.

Cheesemaker's Glossary

• Lerou : A slightly curved wooden jug, 40 to 60 cm high, which was used to collect milk during milking.
• Cuilhé : A spoon in the shape of a shovel, almost at a right angle, extended by a deep, flared spoon, useful for skimming milk
• Cubetou : Container hollowed out of a fir tree trunk with a lid and a strap to collect the cream from the milk
• Toudeilho : Long, bark-barked stick with 5 prongs taken from a boxwood top cut about ten meters from the ground, which is rolled between the palms of the hands to turn the milk and avoid lumps.

How can you come to the mountains and not think of cheese? How can you come to the Pyrenees and not think of cheese? How can you not associate winter with cheese? Uh, that's already 3 good reasons to give you a melted cheese recipe, right? 

Discover the recipe for Rogaliflette… Read more here

You may also like...

Cheese producers

Portrait of Emanuel Bendick