Cheese

Couserans is the second largest cheese producing area in the Pyrenees and benefits in particular from a PGI for the raw milk Pyrenees tomme and the “Valeurs Parc” brand from the Ariège Pyrenees.

The Ariège Pyrenees and in particular the Couserans valleys are after the Atlantic Pyrenees the largest cheese production area in the massif.

Moulis, Bethmale, Calabasse, Rogallais…cheeses which take their name from the valleys where they are made and constitute a single cheese: “Pyrenean tomme made from raw milk”. 

Only since 1996 has only its pasteurized version benefited from a PGI (Protected Geographical Indication). The PGI assumes the existence of close links between the terroir, or territory, and the specific characteristics of the product. 

For 20 years, artisans and farm producers have been asking for changes to the specifications to have a Pyrenean cheese that resembles their terroir.  

• Introduction of farm and artisanal productions
• Introduction of milks other than cow's milk 
• Change of production area
• Introduction of raw milk and therefore the recognition of cheeses with natural rinds
• Introduction of obligations regarding farming practices (compulsory grazing, origin of feed given to animals, etc.) 

Led by farm cheesemakers and artisanal producers, who want their expertise to be recognized, and supported by the Ariège Pyrenees Natural Park, the European Commission has obtained the much-desired modification of the specifications. From now on, all Pyrenees cheeses will be able to benefit from the PGI label. A real guarantee for the consumer and recognition of the work of an entire sector. 

The secret of the ancient production of raw milk tomme cheese

In the center of the herd, two cowherds wearing clogs are busy. One of them crouches on his lerou* in wood in order to harvest the precious milk as creamy as whipped cream. After milking, the milk rests and gradually becomes covered with a creamy layer. It is then that equipped with its spoonful* in cherry wood, the man recovers the generous cream by touching the surface of the liquid and depositing it in its cubetou*.

When the milk heats, it slowly turns its toudeilho* between his hands always stretched in the same direction in order to dilute rennet until the curd forms a compact mass taken from the branches. The mixture is then crumbled, salted and kneaded, poured into molds placed under a press.

These cheeses will be turned every eight days after maturing for at least 2 months in the high altitude barns who will eventually be taken down summer pastures at the end of summer to be sold in the village square.

Today, milking techniques in the dairy are more modern, but the curdling, molding, draining, salting which give the cheese its flavor are always done by hand. Tomme cheese is made from cow, goat or sheep milk, from a ancestral tradition from local producers can be enjoyed on the plate but it is also used in the composition of a certain number of recipes in our mountain gastronomy.

Cheesemaker's Glossary

• Lerou : A slightly curved wooden jug, 40 to 60 cm high, which was used to collect milk during milking.
• Cuilhé : A spoon in the shape of a shovel, almost at a right angle, extended by a deep, flared spoon, useful for skimming milk
• Cubetou : Container hollowed out of a fir tree trunk with a lid and a strap to collect the cream from the milk
• Toudeilho : Long, bark-barked stick with 5 prongs taken from a boxwood top cut about ten meters from the ground, which is rolled between the palms of the hands to turn the milk and avoid lumps.

How can you come to the mountains and not think of cheese? How can you come to the Pyrenees and not think of cheese? How can you not associate winter with cheese? Uh, that's already 3 good reasons to give you a melted cheese recipe, right? 

Discover the recipe for La Rogaliflette… Read more here

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Portrait of Emanuel Bendick